Only in one of the photos (The Monkey Bar Challenge) am I hanging off with one hand on the camera etc.d0dg3r wrote:When you say monkey bar, are you hanging off one handed with another hand on the camera?
If that's the case, then I'm surprised your shots are as stable as they are!
The obvious answer is to use a tripod for nighttime photography but if you are indeed hanging off a bridge that might not be possible! Using a higher iso and wider aperture so that you can have a faster shutter speed would be the next thing to try!
They could indeed. There is a spot where you can get access to the walkways used for maintenance under the bridge, I've tried twice, failing both times. I'm not one for heights.No+Pro wrote:They could call it the Darwin Challenge
Yeah, I was going to head over the Bridge for a nice shot at the South Entrance but realised that they had closed the walkway off. I was disappointed. I'm assuming the anti-jump fences will also obstruct the photo view, which is a shame but I guess still a necessary asset for the bridge. The whole reason I wasn't able to get onto the under-carriage of the bridge was because they had added some new beams on the underside of the bridge, my guess is to stop people from what I was doing.No+Pro wrote:i think its hard to avoid lens flare when your lens is facing the light source, better glass might not be as easily affected, you just learn to pick your angles. that said, have been playing around with intentional flare on non-splore pics lately, mixed results, some i really like.
as for dangling off the bridge, surprised noone came looking for you, there are twenty-something cameras on the bridge these days if you believe the newses. in a couple of months i would say it won't be possible, when I drove across the other day they looked to be making a start on the anti-jump fences
Unclehaggz wrote:Nice shots for sure ! they have nearly finished the "anti-jump fencing" on the western/upstream side, noticed when I drove past today!!
I'd hate to know what it cost the ratepayer for all the anti-climbing cladding and now the "anti-jump" fencing !!
Sorry for your loss!2Biased wrote:Unclehaggz wrote:Nice shots for sure ! they have nearly finished the "anti-jump fencing" on the western/upstream side, noticed when I drove past today!!
I'd hate to know what it cost the ratepayer for all the anti-climbing cladding and now the "anti-jump" fencing !!
Yeah, and from what I've heard, the anti-jump fence now blocks most of the view Which is a shame, but they definitely need them, I had a friend who committed suicide off that bridge in 2009, not very nice.
Okay, cheers!CafeCSK wrote:Just because you never really got an answer, you can make the light crisper etc in post using lightroom - that's probably why all the other shots you've seen are how they are
You can usually get a good starburst at around f/16, though it depends on the lens. f/16 is usually much sharper than with the aperture wide open (e.g. f/3.5).blackpoint wrote:From the starburst effect on your lights (which looks good) I'm guessing that you are at the smaller with end of the aperture of the lens.
With some lenses you can get diffraction which can reduce your overall sharpness if you push the aperture all the way to f22 or whatever your lens is. For a scene where I want everything as sharp as possible, I'll typically set the aperture between f8 to f12 (I use a f2.8 lens). I won't go above that for any reason except increasing motion blur (in which case I use a ND filter anyway) or for starburst effects.
If after this I am still struggling because of movement, I could bump the ISO up a bit.
You could try learning about setting your hyperfocal distance. That will help ensure that you have maximum depth of field across the shot from the foreground to background. There's hyperfocal app calculators you can get but as a rule of thumb, focus 1/3 into the scene.
I usually switch the live view mode on So I can digitally zoom on the focus point (don't zoom with the lens) and manually adjust The focus.
I Edit everything in Lightroom. all my shots have adjustments to exposure, blacks/whites, clarity, highlights/shadows, tone curve, sharpening and noise reduction. It's amazing what Lightroom is capable of of achieving when editing or even salvaging photos.
Hope this helps.
It depends on the lens but generally the sweet spot is in the middle of the aperture range. So for a lens that is f2.8 to f22 it will be around 8 but it's part of getting to know the lens that you have. There are slight differences learned by trial and error.d0dg3r wrote:That's true but I've found for most lenses that the sharpness sweet spot is between f/8 and f/11. After that you tend to lose a bit of sharpness.